This was hard work.
For starters, there really isn't as much information on Abu Dhabi as one might think, given that it's an international city approximately the size of Washington, DC. The places to begin are few:
The tried and true (but incredibly out of date) Abu Dhabi Complete Residents' Guide
Unfortunately, these resources all tend to be a bit on hotelcentric, meaning it's a lot harder to find that cute little hole-in-the-wall than it is to find the coffee shop in the Intercontinental. I'll continue my quest, but meanwhile offer four reviews for your coffee-sipping pleasure:
1. Ninar
You can't beat this place. It's got everything -- reasonably good coffee (I'm not a snob, remember?), great breakfast food; fun, cheap, and fresh bites for the evening; industrious emirati students cramming for exams, and big comfy sofas and chairs. And since going out for morning coffee in the Al Markaziyah neighbourhood doesn't seem to be a popular activity, you'll probably have the place to yourself before noon.
The tiny little problem with Ninar is actually locating it. It's next to the Transylvania Cafe', but that didn't really help us. We were fortunate that we knew the area and were committed to walking around in circles until we found the place.
Here's what to do: Starting at the intersection of 6th (Najda) and Hamdan Streets, head up 6th towards the Corniche until you arrive at the corner of Le Royal Meridien hotel (n.b., not Le Meridien Royal, as most Francophones would think, and definitely not Le Meridien, which is way over in the Tourist club Area). You'll recognise Le R.M. by the flying saucer restaurant perched atop. Now turn right and walk past the Hamdan Post Office. Ninar is just past it on your left.
2. City Cafe'
This is actually in a hotel -- the Al Maja Arjaan (one of the Rotana group), but I like it because it doesn't look like a hotel cafe'. It's small, with a few sofas and low tables, and the cappuccino and caffe' latte are perfectly acceptable. Service is friendly and prompt, and the place is usually quiet enough to get work done (occasionally there will be one of those mobile phone maniacs who doesn't understand that his phone amplifies his voice for him). As an added bonus, if you look like me they'll reserve you one of the nice big sofa tables and your caffe' latte will arrive without you even having to bother to order it.
Here's what to do: Go to the Al Maha Arjaan at the corner of 6th and Hamdan Streets. Walk in. Turn right.
3. Gloria Jean's
I'm not a big fan of coffee house chains. Particularly the ones with pseudo-Italianate names that are either spelled wrong, pronounced wrong, or both. But I like the Gloria Jean's at Marina Mall because of the atmosphere -- at the front of the mall on the mezzanine looking out over the yachts in the marina, it's bright and cheerful and you can take advantage of the sun without suffering from the heat. The food isn't much to write home about, but the view makes it worth it.
Here's what to do: Get in a taxi. Say "Marina Mall." Enter the mall, look up slightly to the right and you'll see G.J.'s.
4. Starbucks
I don't like Starbucks. The coffee tastes burnt (to my philistine palate), and even their decaf packs way too much of a punch for this caffeine-intolerant gal. But the big guy had a meeting at the Hamdan Street branch and I went in to do some knitting.
Never again.
The place was, to put it simply, filthy. Stains on the carpets. Stains on the furniture. Stains and scratches on the tables. Maybe they were going for that distressed look, and just overdid it a tad.
Here's what to do: Head to whichever Starbucks is closest to you (I'm not giving them any more free advertising). Then pass it by and go somewhere else.
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